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curdog

Buying the mounts and rings is the easy part - they need to be correctly adapted and fitted to the receiver.
This is not a job for the average "gunsmith".

curdog

Check to make sure the barrel jacket is in alignment, or there is not damage to the shroud or front of the receiver causing misalignment. Also look at the crown. If that's all straight, check the bore - it may be bent. You can bend the barrel slightly to align the sights, if everything else checks o...

curdog

I have that combination with one receiver, and everything works fine.

The critical recoil springs are the ones in the jacket.

curdog

The numbers may be a little misleading on their face.
There is no measurement of the actual spring stock size, or deflection data.
I do know a 25 spring can be mashed flat between your thumb and fore finger. None
of the others will allow that.

curdog

The recoil spring is made of thinner wire, and the buffer spring is quite soft. In fact you can mash it shut between your thumb and fore finger. Can't do that with the others.

curdog

Great to see you at Tulsa, Jack.

You must have gone through that place like vacuum cleaner! That's quite a haul.

I saw a couple of .25's, a couple more than usual. Also snarfed up some Hornady .321
flat points for the 32, which are really hard to find.

curdog

Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad it arrived safely.

That particular jacket had sure taken quite a lick. Nothing that a hammer and a couple of files couldn't
straighten out, though.

curdog

That poor old thing is a can of worms - it has suffered the ravages of being refinished by an "expert".
There are dished out screw holes from a buffing wheel, and it appears the rib is lifting, possibly caused by
a hot blue.
With a new screw, it would likely make a good shooter.

curdog

The easiest way to get 1" rings for them is to buy Ruger extra high rings, and cut the clamp off the bottom. This leaves plenty of material to do lots and lots of work on......

curdog

You will have to remove the lower tang/trigger guard from the rifle. Then let the hammer go forward to take the tension off the mainspring. If this is not done, it will put the screw in a bind. This is why most of the mainspring screws are buggered up in the first place, people try to take them out ...

curdog

Yes, I am sad to be unable to continue doing jobs like this.
The bottom line is, it was such a very small part of what I do that the fees I
would have had to pass on would have made each job prohibitively expensive.
Not to mention the paperwork.

Maybe things will change.
Elections have consequences.

curdog

I think if the original rifle was a .35, the swap to .300 would need a barrel only.
As far as I can tell, the recoil and buffer springs are the same.

curdog

Thank you for the kind comments, gentlemen.
The carbines sure are fun to have.

Sadly, however, I am no longer able to offer this service.
Recent regulation changes now make it uneconomical for me to do so.

curdog

The rifle needs to be able to be taken down for cleaning.
I use a good crescent wrench on the flats of the bolt. Make sure it's good and tight on the flats so you don't round the corners, and it will turn out.
About 8" is the right size.

curdog

I believe the wood plug would have to be hollow so the barrel can go through to the muzzle.
I have seen the "squeezable" buffer spring on a 1911 production Model 8, which I believe was unaltered.
The wood plug must be very early in production.

curdog

I'm not sure who has a buffer spring for a 25. If you find a buffer spring, make sure you can squeeze it shut between your thumb and fore finger - that is the right one.
The springs for the 30/32/35 are very stiff, and can hardly be compressed at all.

I have new barrel nut lock washers available.

curdog

Thank you for the kind words about the carbine conversions, they certainly are fun to do, and to shoot! I'm hoping to get something with my 32 this hunting season. Sadly, I won't be able to make it to the Great 8 event, I have a prior commitment that weekend. But I'm sure you'll all have a great tim...

curdog

If you'll PM me, I may be able to help you out.

curdog

Caber - you have a neat and interesting piece of history there. There are workmen out here today fully capable of doing a conversion such as you have. However, their time is valuable, so it would not be inexpensive. Your pattern rifle itself cannot have parts cast from it, because they would end up ...

curdog

I will probably leave one at the Creamers' table, if it's OK with them. All the Model 8 guys show up there sooner or later.
I'm usually just wandering around looking at stuff.

curdog

I will have a couple of carbines there.

curdog

I will be there too.

curdog

Roadmarker It would be best to lift the dent if you can. The carbine conversions are done by shortening the back end of the jacket, and the front of the barrel. There is a collar inside which contains the recoil springs, and this is not readily moveable. This collar distance is related to the muzzle...

curdog

Check the chamber dimensions with a cerrosafe cast, to see if there's anything there shouldn't be.

If the ammunition has some age on it, you'll probably have cracked necks.

curdog

You certainly have a neat old rifle there. If you can disassemble it and put the metal parts in an ultrasonic cleaning tank, this will clean it the best. I would do that and put it back together and have fun. Please do not send it to a "refinisher". It will be ruined. There are workmen out...

curdog

Rob - you are right on. That's how I do it. Easy as can be.

curdog

Examine it closely for burrs - both the receiver and the screw. See if the screw will start into the thread from the opposite side - sometimes that will "iron" it out.

It's definitely not a candidate for a new receiver - this is a minor hitch.

curdog

It ought to go in - unless you burred it a little bit upon removal.
Make sure you haven't confused it with the tang screw.

curdog

You are almost there. I find a sharp whack on the back of the trigger guard with a wooden hammer handle will seat the plate assembly forward to assemble properly. The tongue at the front is usually a pretty snug fit, in fact, you may be able to see a slight crack at the joint. This should close up. ...

curdog

Olskool - if you'll run the 30 case up in to 7X57 or 7mm08 die first, and just start a little of the neck, it will eliminate your case losses. Works for me.

I always anneal 'em afterwards, too.

curdog

These are no longer available.

curdog

If you will look inside the end of the barrel jacket, you should see the head of the rivet which attaches the front sight ramp. It is about at the end of the threads. That should line up with the center of the dovetail, and it can be easily drilled out. The fore end lug is attached in the same manne...

curdog

The best way for you to proceed here is to find another rifle with a good barrel, and either shoot it or use it for a donor gun. Sadly, buying a barrel blank and paying someone to fit it at the original equipment quality level for $300 is just not going to happen. Unless you find someone to do it wh...

curdog

The price is right there in the OP.

curdog

Sorry for the late reply - I've been away for a few days. I have plenty available.

curdog

I'm still worn out from the weekend - it turned out to be quite an adventure, and enjoyable meeting some of the guys.

Thanks for the kind comments about the carbine - if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I can't wait to get a pig with it....

curdog

That is indeed a shame someone attacked it with a buffing wheel.

curdog

The $25 live center from Grizzly ought to be the ticket - if you're going to use the lathe much you need one anyway.

curdog

The live centers are available for those little lathes - I have one for mine. It should be a Morse Taper #1 arbor, or MT1.

I think the die will fit in the 3-jaw, I usually size the cases first while the 30/30 rims are still on them. They fit better and run truer if you do.

curdog

My rule for handloads has always been:

If I didn't load it, I ain't going to shoot it.

curdog

Jim

Are you using a live center? It rotates on bearings and will turn with the case, not damaging it like that. That's how I do it. A "dead" center is just solid, and will rub the brass and wear, even with oil.

If you don't have a live center, try using a FL die like others have suggested.

curdog

Ikuturso - try some M1A/M14 clips. They only have one raised projection on each side, and this will allow them to drop down to the top of the magazine and feed better.

Congratulations on your rifle.

curdog

I have taken recoil/buffer springs from a 35, and put them in a 32, and they function fine. If they look and function the same, this would lead me to believe they are the same.

curdog

I think the 25 has it's own set of recoil/buffer springs. The ones I've examined are considerably lighter than a 30/32, which appear to be the same as a 35. The 30/32 is a lot closer to the recoil inertia of a 35, than the 25 is to the 30/32.

curdog

The M1A/M14 clips seem to work with the 300 and 35 - they have the bump in the center, unlike Mauser/Springfield with two bumps which does not allow the stripper to get close enough to the magazine. I tried prying open the .223 stripper clips for the smaller rounds, but the clip itself is not wide e...

curdog

Thanks Jim Now I see it - I didn't go any further than the first "Submit" bar. I'll give it a shot when my wife gets home. She can hold my hand, she's a lot better at this than I am. BTW Midsouth Shooters has new Redding 32 Rem dies in stock. They work great, in fact the cases in the pictu...

curdog

The little plate with the step is my gauge to cut the new rim/extractor groove. Just hold it across the end of the case, and touch the tool to it to set the rim thickness.

The piece of tool steel costs about $3.

Now I have a question for you - how do I attach pictures to a post?

curdog

Jim I just use the fine wheel on the bench grinder, I've got no idea what the grit is. All you have is a little flat on the end, and an angle to match the extractor groove. Just use a case for a pattern, when it fits in the groove, grind a little relief, and you're good to go. It shouldn't take but ...

curdog

I have new 100% USA made barrel nut lock washers available to fit the small diameter Model 8/81 barrels in 25, 30 and 32 calibers. They will NOT fit 300 Savage or 35 caliber barrels. They are 50 teeth on one side, 40 teeth on the other, which matches either a 20 or 25 tooth nut. The washers are hard...

curdog

Jim An ordinary bench grinder with a fine wheel will grind the tool to shape. Just use a rimless case for a pattern. Put a slip fit plug in the case mouth to support it, and grab the case in the 3 jaw (not too tight). Support the rim end with a live center in the tailstock to keep the case running t...

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