Model 8 stock removal.

[MTModel8]

Apparently I've found the one part of my Model 8 that I can seem to figure out; how to remove the buttstock.

I've taken out the proper screw in the bottom tang, and short of forgetting about another, I can't seem to get the stock to budge. I suspect there might be a bit of corrosion between the upper and lower tangs that is tying it up, based on a small amount of rust I've cleaned out of the receiver. That's the main reason I want to take the stock off; to check for any other possible rust.

Is there just something really simple I'm missing here? Shouldn't it slide right off, with maybe a small amount of drag?

I don't want to force it, and end up breaking a big chunk out of the wrist. I'm absolutely lost on how to proceed.

[Bandersnatch]

Two methods that I can think of: Take a rubber mallet and tap, Not hit- tap!- the end of the stock comb right in front of the wrist. Gently.

Or, one could get a friend and one grab the receiver and the other the stock and play tug of war.

[Sarge756]

You may indeed have some internal rust buildup that is most likely the bolt spring carrier tailpiece and possibly upper and lower tang. Assured that you have the correct bolt removed (there is only one) proceed as suggested with the rubber mallet. If that doesn`t do it you can secure the buttstock in a padded vice and strike the rear face of the humpbacked receiver with the mallet or use a wood block to protect the metal and strike it with a suitable hammer. If it moves and remains stubborn there is probably a good deal of rust build up in the hole where the tailpiece goes. Caution here as forcing it may split the wood. Just as would be used with metal to metal parts that are frozen the use of a penetrate to free it up is ok. If the stock is not a candidate for refinishing then you will need to stick with products that won`t attack the finish. A soak in hot water and Dawn is an option. If a refinish is going to be done a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works well. I once had a forearm on a Win 92 that had internal rust on the magazine tube so bad that I had to soak it for a week .Be patient and go slow and it will come off without damage.

[MTModel8]

You may indeed have some internal rust buildup that is most likely the bolt spring carrier tailpiece and possibly upper and lower tang. Assured that you have the correct bolt removed (there is only one) proceed as suggested with the rubber mallet. If that doesn`t do it you can secure the buttstock in a padded vice and strike the rear face of the humpbacked receiver with the mallet or use a wood block to protect the metal and strike it with a suitable hammer. If it moves and remains stubborn there is probably a good deal of rust build up in the hole where the tailpiece goes. Caution here as forcing it may split the wood. Just as would be used with metal to metal parts that are frozen the use of a penetrate to free it up is ok. If the stock is not a candidate for refinishing then you will need to stick with products that won`t attack the finish. A soak in hot water and Dawn is an option. If a refinish is going to be done a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works well. I once had a forearm on a Win 92 that had internal rust on the magazine tube so bad that I had to soak it for a week .Be patient and go slow and it will come off without damage.

I have padded jaws for my vice, so I'll give that a try, and tap on the rear of the receiver. It does have two minute cracks at the base of the comb, so I'll definitely take it easy, and fix them while I have the stock off. The finish on the stock and forearm is very thin and flaking off, so I'll probably refinish both.

Thanks to both of you for the input.

[MTModel8]

Bit of an update.

Finally got the chance to take the stock off. At this point, I have to assume that sometime in the past, the entire buttstock got soaked (which explains why the old finish was peeling as badly as it was). The bolt spring tube was covered with fine rust, inside and out. Got it all cleaned up and oiled. The receiver, at the very rear, inside, also had some rust. There are also two barely-visible cracks beneath the buttplate, running horizontal, and one on either side of the comb, at the rear edge of the upper tang. I'll definitely keep an eye on them.

I got all the old finish off the wood, so I'm going to give the forearm and stock a few coats each of Tru Oil. The wood of the grip is flush with both tangs, which leaves me no room for any sanding, which I wanted to avoid anyway. Thankfully there aren't many scratches or dings to deal with, so it'll be an easy job.

[81police]

MTModel8, it's always nice to hear someone like you taking care to keep the rifle as close to original as possible, instead of sanding the wood down dramatically. Sounds like the rifle found a good owner!

[MTModel8]

MTModel8, it's always nice to hear someone like you taking care to keep the rifle as close to original as possible, instead of sanding the wood down dramatically. Sounds like the rifle found a good owner!

I appreciate the kind words. At the most, I might someday put a recoil pad on the stock, for a bit more length (inch, maybe an inch and a half too short to be 100% comfortable as is), but it won't be anything that requires drilling any new holes. I want to be able to put the old original buttplate back on if need be.

If you really want to see me go full-on OCD with keeping something as original as possible, get me around an old 40's or 50's Jeep.