https://thegreatmodel8.net/

Hello,
New member here with a couple of questions for my Pre-Model 8 in 35 Rem.

Is the barrel jacket the same size on all of the Model 8s? The one on the recent purchase has been butchered. I'll try to fix it, but just in case I need to replace it.

Second question is on the S curved military style butt plate. The rifle I just purchased has one with a covered compartment. It reminds me of the ammo storage compartment on the old European Drilling Shotguns. Does anyone know if this was ever available on the early Model 8s?

WorkingCollector
An avid fan of JM Browning designs.

Welcome to the board.

How cool is that buttplate! First I've seen S curve with the compartment.

Barrel Shroud/Jacket are the same for all model 8's. The 81's have a larger diameter screw for the forearm boss, aside from that they're the same other than roll stamping.

Great news on the jacket. Once I get it I'll post some pics of the horror that was committed to this one. It'll take some imagination to repair it.

That butt plate has me intrigued. I'll let you know what I find out about it.

That buttplate may be one of kind.

I wonder if Cam has any info on these buttplates? Its amazing the damage one can see on a barrel nut bushing, as well as the jacket.

I did get in touch with Cam and he isn't sure that the trap door is an original feature. There is a corresponding hole in the stock, but it doesn't look like something a factory would have done.

Anyway... My next project is to try and fix this mess. Even the 2 screws are mounted into some sort of plate and not the jacket. Those small exposed holes aren't even threaded. I'll have to get it all apart for a further assessment. It'll probably be cheaper and much easier to just get a replacement. Definitely a long term project.

Howdy WorkingCollector.

The cut hole in your barrel shroud looks like an attempt at a dovetail.

The original 2 sight holes "forward of the cut hole" use a threaded plate from the factory for mounting the rear sight.

The rear most two holes aren't factory along with the pair drilled through the roll stamping. I can't honestly say what they had there, it would only be theory.

Good luck getting the rifle back into action, look forward to seeing it.

Right now- there's a gentleman on ebay selling multiple barrel shroud assemblies "has 4 left."

I have no affiliation with the seller.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226895039367?_ ... R6K_q6WcZg

First part of the restoration attempt has begun. With about $12 in a homemade barrel nut tool, i.e. a 1" round die tool with a new center screw turned down on my drill press, the nut came right off. The bushing was very easy. I used an old galvanized garden stake that I flattened out.

Now the jacket is off and I can work on filling that dovetail hole. The smaller holes I'll see if an experience tig welder can fill those without using some sort of blank.

Good news on the existing screws. It is mounted on a plate, but the plate is a little loose. Does anyone know if it's supposed to be like that?

The rear sight "block" can be staked back tight. Originals I think were press fit from inside, yeah try fixing that. However the chore of staking does leave marks that can show. I used a rounded & polished pin punch to minimize the mark. Do use a very stiff round bar or pipe inside as an anvil.

I'll look into the plate more. The screw posts seem a little tall compared to my other early Model 8. Seriously doubt that I have the necessary tools to press one in. If after the other repairs are done, and I test fire it, then I may just either use a small dab of epoxy on it or a drop of super glue.
If the tig welder can't fill the small holes, I'll just tap them and put in some very short slotted screws.

Here's a follow-on to that buggered up Model Barrel Jacket.

Step 1. Fix the damage.
After finally finding a suitable dove tail filler, I found a local welder to Tig it all up. I think it he did a great job.

DUDE I'm impressed That's way better than other work I've done or had done
Just wish I could find a reliable, affordable Blue source, had that issue for decades.
Carl

That did turn out pretty fantastic!

I do my own bluing.
I do have the bluing solution that FN used originally (you can buy it through Brownell's or Art's Gun Shop), but I haven't gotten the nuances down of applying it.

My favorite bluing process is an old fashioned rust bluing. I make my own bluing (rusting) solution that you can find online. Hydrogen Peroxide, Distilled White Vinegar, Salt, and Distilled water. Clean the surface thoroughly then apply a thin layer of the solution... Then the waiting begins. I usually hang my pieces up in my garage overnight. Next day drop each piece into boiling Distilled Water. The orange rust will immediately turn black. Let them boil for about 5 min. Let them dry off. Card them off with a carding wheel or 0000 steel Wool.
Repeat the process until no more rust forms. After the last carding, soak the parts in regular, no additive, motor oil (I use plain Jane SAE 30) over night. Wipe it down and check for imperfections. You'll end up with an impressive black coating on your gun.
One of these days I'm going to try ocean water just for nostalgic purposes.